Texas

Hey ya'll, from Van Horn, Tex-Ass.

So, we thought we had it bad in the mountains of New Mexico, where they grow their grasshoppers to the size of mice. Yup, they're big and blue and nasty and are ready to take on the world...they would fly at us from all angles as we innocently biked uphill, trying to knock us off our saddles so they could enjoy a nice tasty dinner. Either that or they took one look at kt's Babe in all his shining blue glory, and it was love at first sight. Anyway, the roads were a war zone there for a while with mass carnage as a result; Lola was a death machine and we biked to the sweet music of 'crunch, crunch' beneath our wheels. Still, we made it through.

But now we're in Texas, and working on our 8th flat tire in 5 days. Six of them have been Mine, and I lay the blame for all of them at the feet of this state. Slowly making our way out of New Mexico, the clouds decended, birdsong ceased and all joy was snuffed out of the world. El Paso lay ahead of us, lurking just out of reach as we followed the road along the edge of the state, beckoning to us with long fingers of smog. Flat tire right there on the border, ensuring that we crossed into El Paso in darkness, right through the chemical treatment part of town. (We stopped to switch maps at the first turnoff; a big 'DO NOT ENTER' sign lay ironically in front of us. 'twas lovely). Biking through acid rain the next day kt had an explosive flat in the middle of a monster puddle (the concept of drainage has yet to reach this state), and then another one 2 miles later. Rescue came in the form of Mike, a 4-foot tall man who pulled up on a kiddie bike, offering to take us to a nearby bike shop to buy some new tubes. Mike led the way, fearless in the face on oncoming traffic, lollypop in mouth and cell phone firmly attached to his ear, while we, like overbalanced ducklings, followed frantically in his wake. Let me tell you, there's nothing like facing a rampaging 18-wheeler head on a shoulderless stretch of road. (Mike's excuse when I told him he's lucky to be alive, the way he bikes..."man, you have to be able to SEE the traffic"...and there was something in that, as the second we crossed back to the right side of the street the car horns started blaring away again). Anyway, I had two flats the next day, then one flat the next, and then two yesterday, the 2nd coming just as the sun was setting over the windy plains and I-10; being totally out of tubes and patchless, we walked our bikes for 2 miles down the dark, freezing highway and stopped at the first hotel we passed.

Now we're just hanging out in the dead end town of Van Horn, waiting for help to arrive in the form of an overnight delivery of bike tubes and patch kits. The excitement of the day thus far has been the attack of a rabid one-eared Chihuaua as we, innocent tourists that we are, were out for a morning constitutional. The people are nice though; we're happy to be out of the meat market of El Paso. There cars would slow as they passed us on the road, listing to the side as all the passengers leaned out the windows to send leering glances and whistles our way. No, now we're into "How you doin', l'il lady" country....I'll take that over lascivious glances any day.

So that's it from Texas; hopefully we'll be back on the road soon and on our way to Del Rio. Hope you's all are well.

xoxo,
Sylvia
10/25/2002

And Onwards...

Howdy, all, from Las Cruces, New Mexico!

I'm keeping a very nice janitor-man late here at NMSU, so must be speedy.

Everything continues to be fabulous, including my tanlines, which are reaching epic proportions of bizarreness. It's a good thing I'll be coming back in the winter, though the weirdo brown dots on my hands are going to raise a lot of questions! We've just finished with the mountain portion of our trip, climbing to over 8,000 feet at Emory Pass in New Mexico. We paused at the top to take some euphoric photos when the gods took notice and...rumble rumble...the skies opened and we were instantly soaked in an enormous downpour which quickly turned to hail, pounding at us from all sides at once. Scurrying downhill on windy roads with numb fingers holding onto brakes that wouldn't work in the rain was kinda stressful, so we took a 2-day mental health break in the tiny town (30 residents) of Kingston, NM, which, believe it or not, was the biggest town in New Mexico during the gold rush. (The 1880 census recorded 7,000 residents, NOT including, of course, women, children, or 'Chinamen', none of whom counted at the time. ahem.) Anyway, lots of cool old buildings, and an old b&b that served the most divine sourdough waffles in the mornings. The place is super into environmentally-friendly building, which is one of kt's passions, so she begged me to stay an extra day and build walls with mud and straw and stuff; long baths and hot tubs being more up MY alley, I agreed, and so we stayed an extra day and built and they let us stay for free! Lovely to spend some time in a real bed.

Coming down into the desert we passed through the chile capital of the world ...they grow green chiles here, which are also RED chiles that are just green chiles left on the vine to ripen, and then thrown onto any available flat surface to dry out even more, before being tied into all kinds of decorative wreaths and being smoked and things. You get the idea. But anyway, biking all through these incredible valleys you smell peppers everywhere, and it's fabulous. And all the pickers are out kneeling in the rows...all day today we would be biking along when all of a sudden heads would pop up and arms would wave frantically, and long choruses of aieieieieieieee and woohoooooos and, my personal favorite, ARRRRRRRRRIBAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!s followed us down the road.

This is also, unfortunately, the mangy dog capital of the world, and my those critters have exciting lives. There they are, innocently soaking up the sun in their front yards, and here come two lumbering creatures on bikes straight into their path. Beats tv any day. Luckily I was biking first for much of the day, which meant the dogs just barely caught site of me before I whizzed past. (i imagine that they also took one look at the look of ferocious concentration on my face, and decided to back off. smart move doggies.) but then came katie, and they were prepared!! Poor kt had dogs trailing her for miles today. So yeah, mangy dogs, scorpions that have tried to crawl into hot tubs with us, TARANTULAS, and the occasional moth-eaten emu...it's been a trip. We're passing into Texas tomorrow, so keep your fingers crossed for us...all the nice liberal bumper stickers plastered all over our bikes (including kt's favorite: "bushoncrack.com"), aren't guaranteed to make us many friends.

So that's it from me! Hope all are well.

xoxo,
Sylvia
10/19/2002

Impatient with the slow swing into Spring, a revisiting of old adventures

Hello everyone, from Scottsdale, Arizona!

Yes, kt and I are still alive and kicking. We've been attacked by mosquitos, battled with 18-wheelers for highway space, and encountered some bizarre wildlife (I was attacked by a 10-inch lizard while innocently showering at one campsite...the screams, apparently, were heard for miles), and are having a fabulous time.

Lola and I (Lola is my lovely mini-Winnebago of a bike), and kt and Babe (her big blue partner in crime) set out from San Diego about 10 days ago, or so. (I've been sleeping the past few nights in a BED with PILLOWS, so exact details have become a bit fuzzy.) We spent about an hour or so grunting and heaving and trudging our fully loaded bikes through the sand in an attempt to dip our rear wheels in the Pacific Ocean, and then headed east...and directly over a 4,000-foot wall of mountains. Needless to say, there was little opportunity for hill-climbing in Boston, but Lola and I just gritted our teeth and climbed up....and up...and finally made it over the top (though we had to scurry to be on our way again the next morning at 6am to avoid an approaching snowstorm.) The descent more than made up for all the sweating and cursing, however: we flew out of those mountains at 40mph along the 6% grade of I-10, braced against some furious headwinds that howled around the curves of the mountains and tried to blow us right off the edge of a cliff.

The scenery has been awesome...that mountain decent I just referred to is the In-Ko-Pah Pass, and it looks like something straight out of 'The Never-Ending Story', where the huge piles of
boulders resolved themselves into rock-men...either that or some giant made drip castles with red rocks instead of grains of sand, I couldn't decide. So anyway, hurtling down we came like avenging angles, eating up the road in front of us, and we exploded straight out of the mountains and into the desert. And it is FLAT flat flat. With howling winds that, most of the time, were very nicely behind us pushing us along. (Note, MOST of the time. some of the toughest riding has been going downhill against ridiculous headwinds that mysteriously seem to come from every direction, at once.) And about a day or so out of the desert we were in the Imperial Sand Dunes, though it might as well have been the Sahara...huge dunes to all sides, sand blowing across the road, into my gears, my hair, my eyes, all my worldly possessions. You get the idea. And then SHOOM we were out of the dunes and in the midst of the Chocolate Mountains, admiring the remnants of a 500-year old pre-Columbian Indian trail that parallels
the highway we were on and trying to ignore the Navy fighter jets that were on practice-bombing missions in the mountains around us.

We've met some of the most amazing people, as well....there was the guy in Alpine, CA, who
fixed our bikes for free the day after we left San Diego (all that hard-won beach sand needed to be removed from our gears)...he custom designs and manufactures knives in his spare time. Another day, a man in a pickup stopped to make sure we were ok when we were pausing for a water break, and then was mysteriously there again when we were stopped to check out our maps (we do peddle occasionally, really). He bought us some cokes, and it turns out that he is very familiar with our route as he's a snake hunter, and has driven the same roads tons of time at night searching for some nasty things that this camper wasn't too happy to hear about. He's also a rancher, and has about 1000 baby snakes on hand right now, ready to be sold all over the world. One day we were sitting (again) in front of a convienece store in Wenden, AZ, (the cantaloupe capital of the world) and all the town was afire with melon picking season
(highlight of the year, apparently.) We were speculating on how best to procure a melon for ourselves and someone handed us a ripe one out the window of their car. And then there are the crazy bikers we've met...there was one elderly couple who we happily smoked on an uphill, but who then caught up with us when we were suntan-lotioning later down the road; the dude is over 70 and has been x-country on a bike 3 times, and bikes all over the world. We gave him a head start and he passed us some peaches later down the road. And no matter what, everyone is amazed (if not totally bewildered) to see two such heavily-laden, spandex-clad females, and wants to get the heck on over to find out what's going on.

So all that's been great...kt and I are great bike partners as well. She creams me on the
uphills, and I fly by on the way down. She's also really sweet about sharing her sleeping bag on the cold nights when my own bag and costume of shorts, tights, rain pants, biking socks, wool socks, t-shirt, jersey, and fleece vest aren't enough to keep me warm. And conversation flows....the other day we were on the top of a hill, zoning out as we inhaled our second power bar of the day. "Did you see that gumball back on the road?" she asked. Munch, munch. I reflected. The gumball had been about 10 miles back. "The green one?" I returned. "I seriously thought about picking it up and eating it." "Yeah. Same." So we bike, eat tons, and sleep about 10 hours a night...it's been great so far!

This is the second time I've written this (erased everything the first time) so am off to dangle a toe or two in the pool. Hope everyone is well, and keep in touch!

xoxo
s
10/6/2002

Winter in Vermont

To all those who wonder about civilization, standard of living and the creature comforts available to those who live (metaphorically) in the Arctic Circle, allow me to set your minds at ease. There aren't any. I didn't set much stock in femininity to begin with, but honestly sometimes you just want to lie in bed with the vapors and have someone else deal with life for you.

To wit: I hauled my under-rested ass out of bed into the frigid air of my house this morning, wildly excited to get to early statistics class. Actually, I was happy to be up because it's the most beautiful sunny day out, and a balmy 8 degrees. I didn't even wear a coat, just a scarf and gloves with my sweater. No coffee, no breakfast, had to hit the road. I lugged my bag, extra computer bag, lunch bag, undereye bags out to my car, which is conveniently located in 2 feet of snow because I'm too lazy, and too spoiled with 4 wheel drive, to have shoveled out my side of the driveway. I minced over to the driver's side door and gently tugged on the handle....it didn't
budge. I sighed and put my back into it... and got nowhere. Angling my body sideways and grimacing while tugging accomplished exactly nothing. No worries, there are other doors. I gingerly stepped back through my footsteps to the rear door...which was completely frozen shut.

Thence began 10 minutes of high drama at 43 Hazen Street, to the great amusement of the kids waiting for the school bus across the street. I tried bracing myself against the wheel while I tugged. I put my back against my housemate's car and my feet up on mine for leverage and heaved. I hurled myself against the doors on the other side of the car, covering myself in snow and achieving approximately nothing. I stomped in circles for a while trying each door over and over. I muttered, I cursed, I kicked inanimate objects, I chipped my nail polish. Finally, after banging for a time on the glass, I managed to crack the glass window on the rear door, through which I launched myself head first, ass and legs waving out the back of the car as I wriggled into the car. With the sense of accomplishment I imagine the gladiators felt after facing down a tiger in the ring, I forcibly kicked the doors out from the inside, let loose a victorious 'HA!!' and chugged on over to class.

Some mornings you just need a freaking martini.